SLAVE TO THE RHYTHM. A Taste of the Mauritian Sega?

“You gather the idea that Mauritius was made first, and then heaven; and that heaven was copied after Mauritius." Mark Twain, "Following the equator" 1897. How best to get a feeling of the living culture of a nation than in its folklore and music? Mauritius is a tropical island paradise situated in the warm waters of the Indian Ocean. It has got its own rhythm and sound, with the corresponding dances known as sega (pronounced Saygah). Mauritius is blessed with the sounds and rhythms of the western, eastern and African civilisation, which have come across its history. This legacy has been preserved and passed on unscattered through generations. On the other hand some have meld together to yield unique sounds and rhythms. The most typical folkloric dance of Mauritius is the Sega of African origin. It is an amalgamation of different African cultures. The Sega, a dance unique to Mauritius, best expresses the ‘joie de vivre’ of its people. Many travellers to Mauritius had all witnessed the magic of the black ‘shega’ dance or music, or as it soon came to be known; the sega. They had all heard the music born of African souls soothed in their lost homelands on rapid drumbeats and pounding rhythms. African souls now caught in an island's fragrance and soft beauty. The dancing the travellers had marvelled at, is the body language of slaves forgetting, leaving pain and sorrow behind at the end of a hard day's work. Le Morne beach, on the south west of the island is linked to the history of sega. In its legend, the beach is moonlit and cool, a fire burns glowing over the faces. Stimulated and inspired by local rum, the fishing folks gather around a camp fire and give full vent to their emotions. The dancers wait and watch as the musicians heat the ravane (wooden hoop over which has been stretched a piece of goat skin). Very often they dance without any music at all and are accompanied only by the sound of the Ravane, the tinkling of spoons, the rattling of seeds in a tin, and the clapping of hands of spectators who eventually join in the melee. The dance itself is the rhythmic swaying of the hips to the pulsating rhythm of the Ravane. It starts with a gentle swaying, to a slow and solemn tune, which gradually rises, consuming the dancers and setting their bodies jerking, stretching and swaying with animated movements to keep pace with the ever-increasing tempo. The beat creeps inside you and as your body responds to the rhythm, you are carried to heights of ecstasy, generating a vibrating force that shakes the "lead" off your feet and inspires you to a high-spirited and unrestrained way of dancing. Tiring perhaps, but exhilarating. Never mind if your movement does not follow the rhythm ... just carry on dancing and you will be amazed how rhythm and movement synchronize afterwards. Nowadays, guitars, drums, pianos, and other sophisticated instruments like organs are introduced. Modern electronic instruments and even synthesizers and other sound effects are now recorded in the Sega. Sega has something mystical and special about it's rhythm; when you hear live sega you immediately get the feeling that you need to dance. It is still very popular among all age groups and you couldn't imagine any party without it in Mauritius. Mamzelle & Zoli femme are typical segas with modern instrumentation.